Sima is a small fruit that grows in clusters, offering a unique sour taste. This perennial plant thrives on high hills and holds cultural significance for the Akha people. Ma Peng – Phongsila Commak, the founder of the Sansaicisco Project and a member of the Slow Food Network, discovered Sima during a visit to his friend, Lee Ayu Chuepa, owner of the renowned coffee brand Akha Ama. This encounter unveiled new potential for this high-altitude fruit.

Ma Peng learned from his South American friends in the Slow Food network about a movement to reclaim rivers in South America. This was driven by the massive cultivation of avocados to meet global demand. Given that avocados require significantly more water than lemons or corn, this trend has led to serious environmental issues, particularly affecting nearby rivers. Concerned that Thailand, where avocado cultivation was starting to gain momentum, might face similar challenges, Ma Peng sought environmentally friendly alternatives that could also benefit local farmers, which led him to Sima.

Sima is a native plant of the Akha people, thriving easily in their high-altitude villages. Every Akha household has Sima trees interspersed among their crops, and these perennial trees can be harvested without being cut down. The Akha culture is deeply intertwined with Sima, which plays a vital role in various traditions.

“When Akha couples build their homes, they must first plant a Sima tree. If the tree thrives, they can proceed with building their home. This is significant because when they have children, they boil Sima leaves and bathe the child in Sima water, marking them as true Akha. In the past, if someone fell ill, it was believed that brushing Sima branches over the sick person would chase away illness. Beyond its cultural significance, Sima is also used in traditional Akha cooking, such as being fermented with fish before grilling in banana leaves,” explained Ma Peng.

The longstanding relationship between the Akha and Sima has led to the development of expertise in cultivating and managing the plant. Since every household grows Sima, it can be easily harvested and dried under their homes, ensuring it lasts much longer than other crops. This durability allows the Akha to avoid the disadvantages of perishability when negotiating with middlemen. Recognizing Sima’s potential, Ma Peng has dedicated the past two years to promoting it as a valuable ingredient.

Ma Peng began by organizing activities to invite city dwellers to learn about Sima directly from Akha experts. He also collaborated with chefs to experiment with Sima in various dishes to explore its culinary potential. Later, he worked with Asst.Prof. Aussama Soontrunnarudrungsri, the sensory analysis of food and non-food products from the Faculty of Agro-Industry, Kasetsart University to analyze Sima’s components, discovering its unique sourness and identifying optimal culinary uses. This information was compiled into a guidebook to assist chefs and food enthusiasts in integrating Sima into their recipes.

With support from the Creative Economy Agency (CEA), Ma Peng has been advocating for Sima to become a recognized local ingredient that contributes to Chiang Mai’s economy. This initiative culminated in an event during Chiang Mai Design Week 2023, where various food businesses showcased Sima in their creations.

For instance, Madae Slow Fish, a restaurant supporting local fishermen, used Sima mixed with salt to coat fish while grilling. Helo Cola, a craft cola maker, incorporated Sima as a key ingredient, giving their cola a distinctive Northern Thai flavor. Adirak Pizza experimented with Sima in a dish featuring fresh cheese, while Noir, a jazz bar, crafted mocktails and cocktails using Sima. Bar.san infused Sima with soda in their highball cocktail, creating a drink with a unique aroma.

Following these experiments, a meeting was held at TCDC Chiang Mai to discuss the possibilities and challenges of using Sima as an ingredient. There was unanimous agreement on its potential value, not only as a unique local ingredient but also as a means to support the environment and the Akha community.

Ma Peng plans to consult economists to assess the ideal pricing for Sima, ensuring it remains accessible to the general public and not just confined to high-end restaurants. His vision is for Sima to become a staple ingredient in every household, benefiting both consumers and the Akha community.

“I dream of Sima becoming a common kitchen ingredient that anyone can use. It’s a local product that directly benefits the villagers. My goal is to promote it without personally selling it. If someone is interested, I will simply direct them to where they can buy it from the Akha community, benefiting them directly. I want to see local plants gain economic value. If we support ten types of local plants, villagers could earn a stable income without having to uproot their original crops to grow new ones, which could harm the environment, especially in watershed areas. Moreover, if a plant is part of their culture, they will take pride in their identity when others recognize the value of what they have. I believe Sima can achieve that,” Ma Peng concluded.